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In this respect, Fanon and Memmi’s diagnosis of African neocolonization following independence remains remarkably relevant for an understanding of Macau’s post-colonial formation: old and new, internal and external forces are in play. Decolonization has taken place alongside capitalist expansion, propelled by domestic elites and sanctioned by Beijing’s pro-market turn.
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footnote 4 A new wave of radicalization appears to be taking place among local workers who feel betrayed by the economic liberalization process, a spontaneous movement for the protection of social rights that reveals some of the structural tensions of China’s re-orientation to the world capitalist market.
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Relentless reclamation projects have expanded the quantity of land ripe for development: the sea inlet that formerly separated Taipa and Coloane is now a stretch of dry land called the Cotai Strip, expressly modelled on Las Vegas’s main thoroughfare, where 20,000 hotel rooms are currently at some stage of construction.Īs the May Day protests indicate, however, the benefits of growth have been shared far from equally among Macau’s 540,000 residents. But much of its picturesque colonial architecture has now been submerged beneath a wave of high-rise construction, as luxury hotels, apartment buildings, entertainment complexes and mega-malls have mushroomed across the landscape, blocking out such landmarks as the 19th-century lighthouse on Guia Hill. The historic Portuguese centre of the enclave retains a Lusitanian flavour-cobblestone streets, colonnaded squares, pastel yellow and green churches and houses-combined with Chinese monuments: the A-Ma temple, carved stone gateways. Located at the mouth of the Pearl River Delta, 20 miles west of Hong Kong, and bordered to the north by Guangdong province, the territory comprises the Macau peninsula and the islands of Taipa and Coloane-linked to the mainland by three road bridges, each over a mile in length. footnote 2 The casino boom has had a far-reaching impact on the territory’s landscape, social fabric, economic life and everyday culture-transforming it from colonial outpost to what Las Vegas casino entrepreneur Steve Wynn breathlessly called ‘the most dramatically changing place on the planet’. Macau now has almost as many casinos as Las Vegas, and recently overtook it in terms of revenue. Macau is the only part of the prc where gambling is legal and, in a stark demonstration of the ‘one country, two systems’ principle, the Chinese authorities have since 2001 enthusiastically opened the region up to casino entrepreneurs from the us. Foreign investment has poured in, the vast majority from overseas casino operators who have driven a phenomenal expansion of the territory’s gambling sector. The protests were evidence of the social tensions caused by the dramatic economic growth in Macau, which-paradoxically-has been increasingly integrated into the circuits of global capital since its sovereignty was returned to mainland China in 1999.
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At the junction of Avenida do Coronel Mesquita and Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, in the heart of the old Portuguese colonial city, an altercation with the police over the protest’s route turned into a series of scuffles, and one citizen was seriously wounded as a policeman fired five gunshots. The march was organized by a coalition of six small labour unions but was joined along the way by many sympathetic bystanders. footnote * Thousands of demonstrators took to the streets with banners bearing a range of slogans-against corruption, for housing rights and better livelihoods, against the influx of illegal labour-and chanting calls for the resignation of Macau’s chief executive, Edmund Ho Hau-Wah.
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O n the sweltering afternoon of May Day, 2007, a rare mass protest of construction workers, local civil servants and others took place in the streets of Macau.